Category: Vessel/Laboratory Page 87 of 89

The Simple Things

After living aboard the USCG Healy for two + weeks, I am finally becoming accustomed to living on a large ship. Thankfully my greatest fears of being violently seasick have yet to come true and, in fact, the pitch and roll of the boat often rocks me to sleep. My days have blended together becoming a blur, judged not by the time, but rather what part of my shift I am in and when the next time I can sneak away to some corner for a strategic nap. I have learned to appreciate the simplest things, like a Snickers bar handed out after dinner. I have also been very lucky to find myself in the company of a crew and group of scientists, who teach me something new each and every day. They also have the uncanny ability of making fun of themselves, just as easily as they can give me a hard time for doing something as awkward as walking into a stationary container box or falling off a chair. I have also found myself going from some serious conversations about politics or science to laughing hysterically about nothing at all in a five-minute time frame—all of which makes the long days go by so much quicker.

The hours are long and the schedule tight. My “day” usually begins around 0330 and I start my 12-hour shift at 0400; however, these hours are a generalization and they have been shifted many times to better match a CTD line. Although a CTD line may not last my full shift, they often do, so I struggle to find the time to visit the gym, eat a meal and, most importantly, write a blog and maintain my journal. Even the weather and the increasingly dark days have taken on a familiar pattern. Since boarding ship, we have had at most 5 days with sunshine, while the rest have been gloomy, foggy and grey. When the sun does show itself, it stays along the horizon all day long creating an almost permanent pre-dusk glow. Since entering the Arctic Circle, we have also been losing day light at a rate of close to 10 minutes a day.

Mealtime is one of my favorite times of the day. While the food may not be the best and is similar to the cafeteria food I quickly abandoned in college, it is the main social affair of the day. For each meal, the galley is only open for an hour, so almost everyone who is awake on the boat shows up. At first, the crew sat on one side and the scientists sat on the other, much like a high school cafeteria, but that lasted about a week before the science crew (the coastguard members that we work with directly) joined the ranks of the scientists. Beyond mealtime, there is little interaction with the crew unless it is at one of the organized “events” that include science lectures, Saturday morale night (an activity and movie played on the big screen) or Sunday trivia. Working as part of Team CTD, I also spend a significant portion of my day with different crew shifts that come in and out of the lab space. Otherwise, interactions include frequent passing in the narrow hallways and stairs or short conversations at one of the two gyms aboard the boat. Which brings me to one of the few things that I will not actually miss about living on the boat: navigating the myriad of doors. Because of the need to secure everything at all times for transit, all doors are secured from both the inside and outside. There are also watertight doors between every section of the boat. In order to isolate any flooding accidents, these doors are secured by opening and closing a bar handle. When walking anywhere, everyone jockeys to be in the middle of the group so that we can avoid opening and closing the heavy doors.

Communication on the boat takes me back to my youth when all the “cool” parents had pagers. The only way to find someone who is not in the same room with you is to dial their pager number and wait patiently for them to call you back on the phone that is on whatever room you are in. Although it is not always the most efficient method of communication, it seems to be a good match for the ship life.

Since we have been underway, we have passed several significant landmarks and seen some things that few people ever get the chance to see. Breaking ice is absolutely wild and not like anything I have experienced before. The boat relies on brute force to blaze a trail for us to follow. As the boat moves, it crashes up and down while the ice crumbles beneath its weight. There are then long scratching noises along the side of the boat as huge chunks of ice move past us. The thicker the ice the louder and bumpier the ride becomes. While we were on the ice, the crew saw one polar bear; unfortunately, I missed it because I was squeezing in breakfast before the next CTD cast. We have also had the rare opportunity to cruise past the Smoking Hills of Canada, which are deposits of lignite (carbon-rich shale and pyrite rich in sulphur) that can ignite spontaneously as the hill erodes and the mineral veins are exposed to the air. Finally, as we headed west again, we took a detour to watch the sun set over Herschel Islands. We were lucky enough to have the clouds lift just enough to let the sun shine through.

 

Pictorial of the most epic rebuild

This is a brief tale of an encoder gone bad. The culprit held gently in my rather sparsely manicured hands. It is a plane simple thingy(sorry for the technical jargon I will attempt to keep it to a minimum) but it it nestled deep inside the guts of a box so cunning, so devious it might be the direct descendant of the original Lament Configuration. 

Yup inside that there box lies the resolver. Remember kids no directions! So don’t try this at home unless you are fool hearty enough to take something apart that you aren’t sure what’s inside. If you are the type that loves the unknown puzzle of how something works, and are fairly adept at putting things back right once you have messed them up, then you are going to love this next picture.

BOOM!!! GEARS!!!! Everyone loves gears!!! Come on there is an entire fashion movement dedicated to gears and how awesome they are. If you don’t believe me, or live under an fashion rock check out steam punk clothing sometime, its AWESOME you won’t be disappointed. So yeah this is actually how I think. Like I see the picture of the gears in my head, now it would be impossible for me to describe what I see without getting overly measurey and mathy and no one wants that right now, especially not me, so this idea was born. So you might be wondering why is she showing me gears when she should be showing me some resolver thingy, what ever that might be. Well because you see the left gear with the shaft, the right cam, and then in the middle back there is a shaft with a gear all the way at the top through the metal plate, yeah that is the resolver shaft.

There is the resolver, you can see the read of the shaft in the middle bearing. 

See those two philips head screws there on either side of the resolver shaft, yeah those were buried under all those gears. I had to take the whole assembly apart to get at them in order to take the resolver off. Well that was nightmare number one-ish, morphing into number two, but the next one is that whilst I was removing the various shafts and gears it suddenly dawned on me that the cam shaft stuff had no top dead center path of travel demarcation line thingy. And this cam shaft is basically what is telling the sensors whether or not it as a point where the antenna needs to unwind to keep from ripping the wiring out of it…yeah…let that one set in for a minute…rip the wiring all out the dish if this thing is messed up…stress much kids?…

Sleep tight kids, and remember if it was easy everyone would be doing it! Love the challenge, embrace the mind bogling, rock the occasional spelling error. 

Team CTD

The first several days of our journey had us steaming northward in the Bering Sea, through the Bering Strait and into the Beaufort Sea. The Bering Strait is significant because at its narrowest point (57 miles), it separates the eastern most point of Asia (Cape Dezhnev, Russia) from the most western point of North America (Cape Prince of Wales, Alaska). As we traveled through the strait, I was taken back to lessons taught in elementary school Social Studies and tried to imagine the strait as a frozen land bridge that served as a major migratory route from Asia into North Americans for nomadic humans as they followed the herds in search of food. Unfortunately it was both too dark and too foggy to see both Russia and Alaska as we passed through, I hope that on the way back that we have to opportunity to be in this unique location.

Once in the Chukchi Sea, not only had we officially left the Pacific Ocean and entered the Arctic Ocean, it was finally Team CTD’s turn to join the science fun aboard ship! CTD is an acronym for Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth and serves as the primary tool for determining essential physical properties of seawater. The data collected with the CTD includes information on the temperature, salinity, chlorophyll, and oxygen levels. The water that is collected is used to verify the computer generated numbers, as well as supply water for nutrient, methane and phytoplankton counts. The advantages of a CTD are its remote sensing capabilities and accuracy. The CTD itself is very lightweight and can be used at depths up to several thousand meters. A shipboard CTD, such as the one on the Healy, is made up of a set of small probes attached to a large metal rosette wheel. The rosette is lowered on a cable down to the seafloor, and scientists observe the water properties in real time via a conducting cable that connects the CTD to a computer on the ship. On the Healy, it is the Coast Guard crew is in charge of lowering the rosette, while I am in charge of operating the computer.

As the CTD operator, my primary responsibility is directing the winch driver as to when stop the CTD to collect the water samples. A remotely operated device allows the water bottles to be closed selectively as the instrument ascends. After the CTD is recovered, it is also our job to make sure that samples are collected in the correct order, gather the water for salt samples and set up the CTD for the next cast. A standard CTD cast, depending on water depth, takes about 15-60 minutes to complete. The whole process is then repeated at each pre-determined site along the transect line. There are nine of these transect lines throughout the Beaufort Sea that are part of different projects. As the cruise continues, I hope to understand more about each of these projects, but as it stands, I understand that the main goal of this cruise is to better understand the flow patterns of the Pacific and Atlantic currents in the Beaufort Gyre and how they are impacted throughout the year by storms and ice.

I am part of a two-person team. The other part of the team is a student from Russia, who is currently working on her PhD in oceanography from the University of Moscow in association with Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute (WHOI). My partner is also my roommate, but we rarely see each other because when I am working, she is sleeping and vice versa. When we do see each other, there is a bit of a language barrier, but her command of English is far better than my non-existent command of Russian. When each of us is on duty, there is very little down time as so much science is being done and the CTD is in high demand as it is gathering data for multiple projects. Before my first time operating the CTD, I was walked through the whole process only once, leaving me very nervous for my first shift. I, however, had a watchful and extremely helpful eye guiding me through the first few casts until I got the hang of the process. Fortunately, my fears proved to be unfounded as I, was able to pick up the important skills rather quickly and, by the end of the first day, I was able to operate the CTD pretty much independently and without any major mistakes.

The regimentation of daily life on the Healy has been quite an adjustment. Meals are served for an hour and only an hour, weekly room checks are required, and the crew is called by their last name and rank. I have yet to figure out what all of the acronyms stand for, however I have begun to understand the chain of command. Fortunately, for me I have developed several nicknames including, the girl who lost her shoes (as it turns out this was actually not my fault as another girl from the science crew had mistaken them for her own and showed up to breakfast an hour later with them on). For someone, who is not known for her neatness, the need to stow everything and leave nothing out has been quite a challenge. Furthermore, I have yet to grow accustomed to the daily drills, in which we must check in while the crew practices for emergency situations. The most recent drill included several fake fires throughout the boat, a flooding in the boiler room and one of the crew getting a piece of metal stuck in his chest. All of which is highly simulated with fake blood and all. I am absolutely impressed with the efficiency in which the boat and crew function and complete daily tasks without questions and little complaining.

As we have been underway, one thing that I am extremely grateful for is the size of the Healy as we pitch and roll through the rough seas. When I look out the window at the sometimes 10-20 ft swells all I can think about is how glad I am not trying to navigate one of our small DISL boats. Getting accustomed to this constant pitch and roll has been another major adjustment for a “balanced challenged” person such as myself. Thankfully, I have not been seasick; however, walking down a hallway without crashing into the walls is a constant struggle. The listing of the ship has also added a whole new dimension to daily tasks such as working out and showering.

Although I have yet to see a whale, I did see the Northern Lights for the first time. I have seen them many times in pictures and I have heard about how beautiful they are, but nothing compares to seeing them in person. On this particular night, I got a pounding on my door around 11:30 p.m. (just as I requested) if the Northern Lights were going to appear. At the time I was getting some much needed sleep before my next shift, which was set to begin in several hours. Although I was exhausted, I knew I didn’t want to miss the opportunity, not knowing if it would ever come again. Once up on deck, I stood with three other people in the nipping cold and was mesmerized by a giant green brushstroke that painted itself across the sky and then slowly faded away. I was so happy that I actually got to witness this natural beauty first hand. If I do get the opportunity to see them again I plan to whistle at them as I was told by a fellow scientist aboard the ship, who is an Inupiaq Native from Point Hope, Alaska, that this will encourage them to dance.

 

Just the Beginning

My first day of this incredible journey began at 4:30 PST as I set out for the San Francisco airport for a series of flights that would end 12 hours later in the tiny fishing port of Dutch Harbor, which is located on the Aleutian Island of Unalaska, Alaska. During WW ll, Dutch Harbor was one of the only locations on US territory to be bombed by the Japanese. Today, it is the largest fishery port in the United States and transfers huge harvests of king crab, pollock and cod from the continental shelf in the Bering Sea. Dutch Harbor is beautiful with sweeping vistas that include its resident active volcano Mount Makushin. I wish I had more time to explore the island but at 8:00 on the morning of my second day, I “reported for duty” on the USCG Healy.

The USCG Healy is nothing less than impressive. When I arrived on the boat for the first time, it was still dark in Dutch Harbor, so all I saw towering above me were the lights of the small, highly efficient city and community I was about to become a part of. Commissioned in 1999, the USCG Healy is currently the only active large icebreaker in the Coast Guard’s fleet. It is designed to break 4.5 ft. of ice continuously at 3 knots and can operate in temperatures as low as −50 °F. It was named in honor of Michael A. Healy, a highly influential captain in the US Cutter Service (which preceded the Coast Guard) during the last half of the 19th century. Healy spent many years in the Alaskan waters acting as a judge, doctor and policeman to the Alaskan natives, merchant seamen and whaling crews. Also a pioneer in arctic navigation, he made science a key part of each of his missions, attracting the attention of renowned naturalist John Muir, who accompanied him on several expeditions. As a legacy to Healy, the Cutter Healy is designed to conduct a wide range of research activities in addition to its search and rescue, and resupply services.

Within the first ten minutes of boarding the ship, I had already been lost three times, overwhelmed by the maze of hallways that all look the same. A good portion of the first day was spent in safety training, which included all of us donning the very unfashionable, terribly cumbersome “gumby suit,” which is a special type of waterproof dry suit that is designed to protect the wearer from hypothermia from immersion in cold water, after abandoning a sinking or capsized vessel, especially in the open ocean. The exercise provided high entertainment for all and, hopefully, we will never need to put the suits to real use. The rest of the day was spent getting my sea legs, gazing at the spectacular scenery and exploring the ship, which includes more than 4,200 square feet of scientific laboratory space, numerous electronic sensor systems, and oceanographic winches. Whether it was watching bald eagles fight on shore, witnessing the efficiency and skill of the Coast Guard crew, or learning about the science being conducted on board, I must have said, “that is the coolest thing I have ever seen” at least three times every hour. I, however, still continue to get lost and need to find new ways to get to where I need to be. Hopefully, in the next 24 hours I will become comfortable enough to get around without asking for directions from every person I see. If you would like to know where I am at all hours of the day the ships progress can be followed at: http://mapserver.healy.polarscience.net/ Tonight we will start to head North to our intended destination in the Beaufort Sea with promises of science, whales, northern lights and ice!

Time To Find Some Warm Socks

As much as I would like to say that I am mentally prepared for the adventure I am about to embark on, I have to admit I am unsure of what to expect from the next month aboard the USCG Healy.  However, there are a few things I do know: I know that this will be unlike any experience I have ever had and I know that I will be working with a crew of brilliant scientists and highly skilled Coast Guard members on a project to understand the relationship between the circulation and ecosystems on the shelf and continental slope in the Beaufort Sea. I also know that I have high hopes to see beluga whales and polar bears and experience the delicate marine Arctic ecosystem before it disappears as a result of increasingly changing climate.  Most importantly, I know that I am eager and ready for the challenge of expanding my knowledge of the Arctic in a real time and hands on way, as well as learn new oceanographic technical skills.  Finally, I know that I have five days before I leave for the next chapter in my scientific career and what I really need to do is buy myself some warm socks and plenty of motion sickness medicine.

It’s the Final Countdown!

     It’s the final countdown, unfortunately we only have 4 days left of this expedition & we are heading back to port. I can honestly say that I’m going to miss all of the wonderful people who I’ve met along the way. This experience has been life changing & I can not wait to share my journey with all of my friends & loved ones back home. I’m so grateful that i had the opportunity to be apart of such an enjoyable eye-opening cruise. There hasn’t been a single person aboard this ship who has ever been negative about anything. Everyone is so optimistic & friendly which makes for a great cruise with a fantastic crew. 

     I could say that I have taken full advantage of living on land. I was accustomed to jumping in my car driving where I wanted too, eating what ever I wanted when I wanted, having no problems shaving my legs, showering, walking 300 feet in a straight line & even sleeping! Living aboard a boat from a month you realize how good you have it because the simplest tasks turn into such difficult ones. Eventually you get used to everything and you learn to love it. You start to make daily routines which become simple over time. For some people life aboard the high seas isn’t for them. I could say that I would love to do this again just maybe aboard a boat that works with ROV’s next time.

     My mentor was extremely helpful throughout the entire trip as well as the other scientists. They taught me the functions of the magnetometer, the Knudsen, the multibeam, the gravitometer , & so many other machines that we have used to collect data. Launching XBT’s was always one of my favorite activities, other than going on the deck in ridiculously high seas.

     Hopefully this is the first of many trips for me. I would love to dive into other trips; this expedition ignited a fire that I don’t think I will be able to smolder. I would love to go out & explore more areas of the world as a scientist collecting data or aboard a ship that works with ROV’s. Reading other peoples blogs also makes me thirsty for another opportunity to dive into the world of oceanography. What’s possibly better than having fun doing something you love? Nothing !

      I can’t express how thankful I am for such a life changing opportunity. Hopefully this isn’t the last time I blog as a MATE Intern. Also I will post photos once I get back to New York since my computer won’t cooperate with me right now.  

Signing off

Ashley Paradiso 

 

Icelandic Culinary Delights

Before I delve into this blog entry, there are a couple things I’d like to address:

First, in the last entry I detailed our gravimeter aboard the boat and identified it as a Lacoste & Romberg G237 unit, which is in fact the portable unit I will be using when we land back in Iceland.  That unit is taken to various control points around the world where the exact gravity has been surveyed in using some other very sophisticated equipment.  The Science Techs and myself will be taking the G237 to two control points in Reykjavik:  At the University of Iceland; and, outside the Hallgrímskirkja (giant Irish Lutheran Church in the center of town).  The data we get from those points can be compared to the calibration of the Lockheed Martin B210 unit that is secured in the Main Lab aboard the ship.  All the data we collected during the cruise can then be confirmed as accurate and true; though, calibration is done before the cruise as well, and the B210 is monitored throughout our cruise.

Second, there is a website devoted to this cruise, which also includes some blog entries by other members of the team:   

R/V Langseth – Reykjanes Ridge Cruise

I highly recommend that you check it out for some different perspectives.

Iceland is well-known, as most cold-climate Northern European countries are, for its penchant to age fish for long periods of time prior to consumption.  It seems there are a couple methods of doing this that date back to times well before the Vikings settled this island.  So, it can be surmised that they brought these methods with them; though, it is common knowledge that the Inuits of Greenland have enjoyed a fermented dish of birds called Kiviak for countless generations.

The preparation for Kiviak begins when seal meets club.  After much ado about seal clubbing, a small party of Inuit men (likely said clubbers of seals) scale sheer cliffs,  armed with loosely woven nets on 20ft flexible poles and recently acquired seal-skin sacks.  It is nesting season in the Arctic and these cliffs are choice real estate for Arctic Auks.  One-by-one as the birds leave their roosts, they are snared in the nets and brought back to Earth, where the Inuit men promptly break both wings and stuff the living birds into the sack.  This technique is repeated until about 500 flopping auks have been wrangled.  The sack is then sewn shut, buried under rocks so as to keep at bay the hungry mouths of Polar Bears and Arctic Foxes, and left until Winter where they are brought out for only the finest of occasions (weddings, birthdays, and – I imagine – the occasional bachelorette party).  

But, I digress…

In Iceland, one method for aging fish is to hang the catch on hooks, in an open shelter with a roof but no walls.  This method made sense during the first days of settlement, since the largest predator on the island were foxes; and, hanging the meat high enough significantly reduced the number of thefts and fox-sized bites missing from the wettest, smelliest portions of the fish.  At times however, ice floes brought with them the very same Polar Bears from Greenland, who were now quite ill-tempered having wasted a good portion of the prior year trying to get a mouthful of rotting auk.  Also, the limited number of catches made in a season made it less amenable to advertise your food stores for all neighbors to see, since disagreements over property were typically settled with the meeting of axes.

So, burying fish became all the rage.  As a result (it’s assumed that) dinner parties were cancelled, invitations “lost in the mail”, and the off-shoot stationary shops of the seal-skin industry went by the wayside.  This method was quite simple:  find sandy hill; dig shallow hole in hill; toss fish in hole; bury with sand and gravel; top off with stones – so as to press out the juices; dig up in several weeks; Bon Appetite!

Whether by accident or insight, this method produced an altogether wonderful (or terrible) discovery, depending on your predilection for all things putrid.  Greenland Shark, or Hákarl as it’s known locally, is common in the waters off Iceland; but, the meat is naturally toxic due to the high concentrations of urea and trimethylamine oxide.  The elevated level of these chemicals make shark blood mostly isotonic to their environment, allowing them to maintain osmotic balance with seawater.  While it’s true that most shark meat contains the same chemicals (see Bullshark, and River Shark), the Hákarl is particularly dangerous.

*Strangely enough, the most common shark steaks you will find served in restaurants in other parts of the world belong to the families Alopiidae and Lamnidae (Thresher, Mako, Salmon, and Great White Shark) which are partially warm-blooded due to aerobic red-muscles connected to the core of the shark that generates heat through counter-current exchange.  Evolution – wee!

The typical preparation involves beheading the shark, then burying in similar fashion, only with much larger stones on top, for 6-12 weeks.  When Hákarl is aged in the burial process it is called Kæstur Hákarl.  The meat is then chopped into large chunks and hung up to dry for several months.  Of note, during the fermentation process the urea is broken down by happy little bacteria who produce ammonia as their waste.  This provides a not so palatable balance between ammonia and rotting fish – though I’m told it’s quite a treat.

It is also worth noting that whale is sometimes aged in this process; though, I’ve only found melted whale fat, and fresh-caught seared whale steaks.

Now, I must address the many suggestions put upon me by several of you regarding the indelible Puffin.  Yes, Puffins are cute.  Yes, Puffins are numerous.  But, no they are not here right now.  They aren’t nearly as big as on TV.  And, it’s going to be pretty darn hard to find a Puffin Burger (Lundi) out of season.  Though, I’ve heard tell of a place…I’ll have to get back to you on that one.

Fun, Games, & a little bit of Science

So you want to know what really goes on aboard the R/V Langseth?

     Some times we have random dance parties, other times we are quietly reading books. A majority of us blast music & have sing-a-long sessions while others play video games or blog on various websites. The game “Who Am I?” is played amongst the girls during their midnight shift to pass the time. While people are on watch others are sleeping (or attempting to), watching movies in the movie room, snacking in the galley, pumping some iron in the gym, playing ping pong in the dry lab, reading a book in the library, or joining others on watch because they’re bored and want some company. I know I know, this seems like all fun & games. I’m sure you’re all wondering what we are actually doing out here considering it seems like we are aimlessly traveling hundreds of miles offshore. No we are not here just to have fun & meet new people. It’s all about the SCIENCE!

     I am currently participating as a Intern aboard the R/V Marcus G. Langseth while the Science Party led by Fernando Martienez & Armann Hoskuldsson propose a month-long geophysical expedition. This expedition will include collecting the multibeam, magnetics,& gravity data that will provide us with a definitive test between the fundamentally different thermal & tectonic hypotheses for how exactly the Iceland plume caused the reorganization of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge of South Iceland. The results will help ensure that the thermal Reykjanes Ridge models are providing accurate information about Earth’s behavior. If their models are wrong they will now be able to provide everyone with a corrected model. 

   Sounds fun right? How do we go about doing that you ask? WELL, there are tons of different electronic & electromechanical equipment on board as well as sonars which we use to record data that is vital to our trip. The expedition requires sonars such as: the Kongsberg EM122 12kHz multibeam echosounder & the Knudsen 3260 3.5kHz Sub-Bottom profiler.We are also required to collect data from the Bell Aerospace Gravimeter & from the T-5 Expendable Bathythermograph (XBT) Probes. The XBT’s are launched on a daily basis throughout the journey. We also collect data from the LDEO PCO2, LaCoste & Romberg portable Gravity sensor, & the SBE-45 TSG for temperature saliniograph data purposes.The information is collected automatically by the computers but is also logged by humans to ensure that humans remain a factor in scientific research. Thirty minute data collection of wind speed/direction, air temp/humidity, & barometric pressure using the RM-Young Weather Station will also be a duty. Last but certainly not least, we are also involved in the deployment & recovery of research equipment such as “Maggie” the magentometer.

    Speaking of Maggie, there was a casualty last week due to the rough weather we had encountered. Maggie is no longer with us anymore, she was lost while making a turn which had caused the cable to break & set her free. She is now swimming with the fishes, RIP beloved Maggie. Luckily her twin sister Maggie II was on board & deployed within an hour of the casualty of our beloved Magnetometer Maggie. Maggie II has been in the water ever since & has been recording some stellar data.

    Every now and then we run into some rough weather which causes a lapse in our data. When this happens, you find frantic scientists who start to panic as soon as we have the slightest amount of missing data. Unfortuantely it happens & there isn’t much we can do about it. Mother Nature has a way with the seas, sometimes she really likes to challenge us with 10 meter seas. American equivalent of about 33 feet! These seas result in falling off chairs backwards, the Chief Scientist Fernando sliding from his table all the way into our Co-Chief Scientest Armann’s office, playing slip & slide in your bedroom while your roommate is yelling “I’ll save you,” & the navigating through the fun house hallways AKA walking through the corridors to travel around the ship. 

      Well now you’re all up to date on what really occurs aboard the R/V Langseth. Hopefully we have some other interesting things happen within our final strecth of the trip so that I can keep blogging. 

-Ashley Paradiso 

Possibly more than you wanted to know about what we do

Contrary to popular discussion overhead in the galley, there is a point to all this drifting and isolation.  We are here to affirm assumptions from lands far away.  To stand firmly on ground never before tread upon – so to speak.  To discover the secrets of a land not yet explored.   At least so I’m inclined to believe.

My job is fairly straightforward.  I stand watch over the scientific equipment collecting various types of data, by monitoring the computers designed to record the data in real time and help troubleshoot and launch the equipment required to retrieve said data.  I suppose a brief walk-thru is in order to fully understand what we are collecting and how it can be considered accurate and true.

We are here to map, analyze, and determine the differences in how the earth’s plates are interacting south of Iceland along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, in an area known as the Reykjanes Ridge.  To quote the Project Summary for per Hey, Ramirez, Hoskuldsson:  

“The project is month-long marine geophysical expedition to collect the multibeam, magnetic & gravity data that would provide a definitive test between the fundamentally different thermal & tectonic hypotheses for exactly how the Iceland plume caused the reorganization of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge south of Iceland.”

In layman’s terms:  When thermal and tectonic forces are acted upon this ridge, how do they interact over time and situation, and is there a pattern to this interaction by which we might change the perspective of the scientific community for how Iceland has formed and will continue to form in the future.

In the short term, this can have significant impact on Iceland’s economy.  You see, there is an invisible barrier around every country bordering a body of water touched by another country.  It is called the Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), and limits all commercial offshore activity within the zone to the country of ownership.  This is pretty darn important when you consider that Iceland is in the middle of the North Atlantic, about the size of Indiana, and only about 40% of it is reasonably inhabitable.  It’s so important that the country’s governing body for all things related to geology, geophysics, and plate tectonics sent a representative (his name is Sigvaldi) on the Langseth to develop a case for Iceland to expand its EEZ to include the Reykjanes Ridge all the way southwest to our survey location and beyond.  This would be a huge development as Norway, Scotland, and Denmark all are looking to exploit these waters for their potential as sites with huge deposits of oil and heavy metals, fishing, shipping routes between Europe and Greenland/Canada/US, strategic military advantages, and (to a lesser degree) whaling.

The first type of data we collect is magenetic, and we do this by deploying a tethered Geometrics G-882 Cesium Marine Magnetomoter.  “Maggie”, as she is affectionately called, resembles a stinger missile with a bonnet on her noggin.  She is launched from the Main Deck, Starboard Aft of the Stern, by at least two technicians:  One to apply the Van Sumeren technique of “gently” heaving her overboard; the other to man the hydraulic winch, which spools out the designated 200m of powered cable.  Due to our optimal surveying speed over ground of 10.5kts, she rides quite high in the water as she measures the magnetics being emitted into the water column.  This is done by recording the changes in pressure that occur in a Cesium vapor vaccuum-sealed cylinder within Maggie.  Typically she is reading the magnetics from the earth’s crust some 1000-3000m (3000-9000ft) below where she rides in the water column.

The Earth is magnetically polarized, like a battery, with a positive and a negative point existing typically near the North and South poles.  Over time, the magnetic field surrounding the Earth can swap polarity, and has done so since its inception with little fanfare.  Newly created or recently exposed crust will take on the polarity characteristics relative to its proximity with the poles.  Over time, these values can diminsh.  This constantly updated/recorded reading from Maggie can tell us two things when values elevate:  That there is thermal activity due to volcanism occuring that is creating new crust, such as in the deep trench located in the middle of the ridge where there are hundreds of volcanoes seen in a single pass of the vessel (we call this location the Axis, as pertains to the meeting of the Eurasian and American plates); or, when the values abnormally shift over locations outside of the Axis, where we can sufficiently determinwthat there has been tectonic reorganization occuring, which leads to much older layers of the Earth’s crust being exposed next to relatively new ones.

Maggie is a delight to work with when she is attached to the boat, but is tempermental with heavy seas and high winds and attempts to retrieve her must be done in the worst and most dangerous of conditions.  I say attempts because after retrieving all 200m of cable early last week when we stopped getting magnetic data, there was no Maggie.  $20,000 in the drink.  Luckily we had a spare onboard, but should this happen again we would be unable to record this very important data.  So, when storms sweep through, we pull her out of the water.

Side note on storms, of which we have weathered three major systems.  Last week there was flash flooding, baseball sized hail, and 60+mph winds back home in Traverse City.  On average, storm systems take between 3-6 days to reach us, and those that pass through the Great Lakes are almost guaranteed to head right for us after leaving North America.  It’s not so much the precipitation that we worry about, but the high winds.  That same storm system hit us strongly a day and a half ago, resulting in sustained 50kn winds and waves as large as 9m (30ft!) until early this morning.  Because of the length of time of said winds, we are projected to have 4-6m waves for the next four days – uggggh.  That means everything you care about needs to be strapped down, walking down hallways is a workout, and sitting in a chair during watch can be hazardous to your health.  That also means sleeplessness and seasickness rear their ugly, conjoined heads.  It’s best to sleep wherever you can whenever the moment takes you; be it barricaded (taco’d) in your bunk, in the Movie Room, or even in the Main Lab (though, sleeping during your shift is highly frowned upon).

The second type of data we collect is gravity.  It is far less elegant and far more complicated than magnetic.  In the Main Lab there is a Lacoste & Romberg G237 Gravimeter, basically an encased gyro with various sensors measuring roll, pitch, heave, as well as several other values, and most importantly the strength of gravity in a given location of time and space.  The data is constantly being updated/recorded and helps us determine one of two things:  Either the thickness of the Earth’s crust; or, the density of the materials that make up the layers of the crust.  Combined with a extremely low frequency sonar system (called a Sub-Bottom Profiler) and core sampling, can provide an incredibly accurate picture of the geology and geomorphology.  Unfortunately, the latter requires that we stop moving and, due to time constraints from bad weather, has been scrapped for this cruise; and, the former (Our Knudsen 3.5kHz Sonar) had to be turned off when the bottom became drastically uneven, providing poor quality data, and also operates at a frequency that can cause problems with our EM122 Multibeam Sonar used for Bathymetric data.

Which brings me to our third type of data, the one I was trained in at Northwestern Michigan College, and consequently the reason why I was selected to be a part of this cruise:  Bathymetric data.  This is collected using our Kongsberg EM122 Multibeam Sonar operating around 12kHz.  The sonar has an encased piezoelectric crystal that vibrates hundreds of thousands of times per second when electricity is applied to it, sending out that energy in the form of measureable acoustic pulses.  These pulses reflect off targets in the water column and return to the sonar where they are “heard”, and provide us with an accurate measure of depth in a given point on Earth.  As with the prior two systems, knowing our geographic location on Earth is essential to collecting accurate data; and, they are all integrated with our multiple GPS/Satellite-based positioning systems located at unobstructed points on the top of the vessel.

The more depth measurements we can collect with each ping of the multibeam the more defined picture we can see of the shape of Earth’s crust.  This is by far the most interesting data to stand watch over, as it is projected on the monitors in a three-dimensional (and very busy) display.  Not only are we keeping an eye on the 3-D Terrain Modeler, but also the 2-D Geographical (Seafloor Map), the black and white 2-D Seabed Imagery, the convuluted Water Column display (which provides us with backscatter data – used to see thermal activity in real time), and various readouts of motion and Sound Velocity which help determine the quality of data being collected.  Sound Velocity (or the speed of sound in water in this context) is extremely important as its measure allows for us to calibrate the sound pulses on the fly so that they return to us in a straight line rather than with a bend (which would give the illusion that the distance to the bottom is longer/shorter and in a different location than it really is).

We take measurements of Sound Velocity on this cruise by launching XBT’s manufactured by Lockheed Martin Sippican.  It is a bullet-shaped lead weight attached to two thin copper wires within a plastic mortar tube that is released from the Streamer Deck.  Those wires are linked to a powered cable that connects to the lab, where measurements of Temperature, Salinity, Pressure, and Depth are recorded.  Typically, we use the T-5 model which is rated to 2500m.  It falls quite rapidly and within five minutes has reached the end of its wires, whereupon the wires are severed and the probe lost to the deep.  Two important things to remember when launching an XBT:  First, don’t let the wires touch any metal or it will short out (everything is metal on a boat); and second, don’t fall overboard!

Thank you for bearing with me in this blog as I delved into the depths – so to speak – of what I do while working aboard the R/V Langseth.  Future entries will cover the leisurely options I have to pass the time.

From the Boston Tea Party to Tacos

       It was like the Boston Tea Party all over again in our common room the other night, minus the casualties of course. The seas were begining to calm down & every one was becoming accustomed to the occassional roll of the vessel. Around 3:30am things started to get out of hand, waves went from a flat 1-2 meters to around 4-5 meters within a few hours. Crazy how things could turn from peaceful to unbearable within a small frame of time. Walking down the narrow hallways trying to make your way to your bedroom without slamming into walls was an almost impossible task. Regardless of which way you went, you were bound to walk into something. After a long night of watch, my roommate Alicia & I finally settled into our beds only to be woken up by a loud crashing sound outside of our door. As soon as we heard it, we knew that the the cup full of tea, which was left on the table, splattered all over the floor. We grabbed two rolls of paper towels & started to clean up the tea giggling the entire time. Despite the fact that cleaning up tea wasn’t an ideal job at 5am, we couldn’t help but laugh because we were sliding all over the room. Balance is something you take for granted when you live on land your entire life. After flying around the room & banging into the coffee table & couches we finally handled the situation. I still laugh every time I think about it because it was just too funny not to laugh.

      As everyone knows, Tacos are a simply delicious Mexican food, but they also help you  sleep at night. I’m sure you’re all like what? how does a taco help you sleep at night? Sticking almost anything under your mattress whether it’s a pair of sneakers, a rain coat, an extra pillow, or even a backpack works wonders. The things you put under the mattress tilt the bed and angle it so that your body can’t move back and forth. That ladies & gents is what we call a taco on the high seas. Without this method it’s almost impossible to sleep when the boat’s rolling back and forth. At first I was a bit skeptical because I didn’t think it would make such a huge impact, but once I tried it I was sleeping like a baby.

       The highlight of my week so far has been the tour of the engine room!  As much as I love science, I would much rather work on engines & be around machinery. The sounds, smells, & feel of all of the different parts that make this vessel run intrigue me. People don’t realize that every single nut & bolt matter in making sure that everything is perfect while underway. The size of the heat exchangers & cylinder heads were shocking because I’m used to seeing small diesel engines. These engines were 10 times the size of any engine I have ever seen before. To me the experience was really cool because of how much I enjoy taking engines apart & troubleshooting them. I guess I could thank Captain Nappo, my professor, for sparking that interest. I made sure to ask plenty of questions about the fuel injection system & the propulsion system; The chief engineer was impressed about how much I knew about diesels which made me feel pretty good. I made sure to take plenty of photos, I even took one of me with a wrench thats about the same size as me ! 

       In the world of science, everything had been running smoothly until today we had a few glitches in the data which caused us to restart the SIS & HDDS a few times. A general reboot of the system was needed to get everything up to speed. Other than that we’ve found some new evidence of lava flow. I got used to watching the monitors & logging data when needed so now the shift’s just fly by. I know my sleep schedule is going to be all messed up when I get home though due to the 12-4am shifts.

Check back in a few days for more updates on the trip

Ashley Paradiso

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